Friday 4 September: OLYMPIA to KALO NERO (36 miles)

It feels good to wake naturally before the alarm. The jet lag seems to be easing. We breakfast in front of the tranquil pool. This must be one of the finest settings, although we didn't think that yesterday when we pushed our bikes up the steep hill after 55 miles. We even manage a few gentle lengths before heading off down hill initially, passing an Olympic theatre stadium and a reservoir. Eventually we have to joint the main road but Simon finds a detour which hugs a rocky out crop and we follow a sulphurous river. We see some old codgers partaking of the healing waters in a covered bath. We are not tempted. Revived by a Cafe Frappe (milk, no sugar - we are learning) we rejoin the main road. There are a number of tanker lorries but I note that most of the coaches are coming in the other direction. Sometimes it is possible to shelter on the right of the white side line but more often it isn't and I just keep my head down and pedal keeping Simon's well toned rear in my sights. I see some mountains looming in the distance and with a sinking feeling realise these must be the Pelopponese that we will be travelling through on our return. After 35 miles we reach Kala Nero, a pleasantly rustic seaside town. Our room in the Irida Resort hotel is rather brown but we are soon relaxing in a beach bar with a Greek Salad, fried fish and a glass of local oak drenched house wine. Free sunbeds on the beach and some bronzing and reading. There is quite a swell and getting in and out of the sea is quite a challenge. Back for showers and relaxing before heading out for supper. We eat at restaurant that is named only in Greek so we don't know what it is called. It is filled with Greeks and we watch the setting sun over the Aegean. Tsaziki, fried courgette and aubergine, grilled sardines and moussaka. All really fresh and delicious and certainly off the tourist track. I think we will sleep well.