Sunday 6 September: PYLOS to VOIDOKILIA and back (20 miles)

We swim from the hotel deck as the sun rises. It is lovely and calm and quite invigorating. Breakfast is on the top floor with magnificent views of Navarino Bay. I think I could get used to this. We pack beach things into one pannier: it feels so light. We buy picnic provisions before heading up and over the hill. It seems so much easier in the cool of the morning with fresh legs and a light load. We cycle about 10 miles to VOIDOKILIA beach, behind a lagoon where allegedly flamingoes can be seen. But not today it seems! When we arrive the magnificent crescent shaped beach is deserted and we struggle to choose a spot. Before long however people start arriving and we are astounded when a large group of Germans plonk themselves, and a beach tent, about 3 feet from where we are sitting - even though there is still miles of empty beach! Feeling totally invaded we move further round and eventually find a nicer and more sheltered spot. Sun worshipping and reading follows. We are both reading The Bone Clocks by David Mitchell which is an excellent and compelling read. We are enjoying our own little book club discussions. We climb up the sandy slope at the end to take photos but the sand is so hot we can barely stand still for long enough and we are worried about blistered soles! Our cycle home is a pleasant 10 miles and we celebrate conquering the hill again with a large beer back in PYLOS. Well needed showers and some Retsina and nuts on our balcony. The weather seems to be changing and there are clouds in the bay. Maybe the heatwave is coming to an end. We eat grilled Bream with Fava bean dip and delicious courgette balls with mint at a restaurant with only a Greek name.