Sunday 13 September PSARI to KALO NERO (15 miles)

We wake in our mountain retreat with the sun rising behind us and slowly dispelling the shade cast on the other side of the valley, and soon PSARI, below is in full sun. We have been left some lovely fresh eggs and so we scramble these and have breakfast on the terrace, with green figs that I have just foraged. We even improvise a filter for our home brought coffee. We head down the rough track very carefully on our bikes and after a mile or so of this get to PSARI which we then head through and take a different road westwards from the one we arrived on yesterday. Just before we join the main road we get caught up in a large fruit and veg market which has taken over all of the roadway through the town and we feel very self conscious pushing our bikes through the throng. We see stalls of the green vegetables that make up Horta. A largely downhill swoop across warm smooth tarmac to sea level and KALO NERO. A blissful day of reading, swimming and al taverna lunch, which we are getting quite accustomed to! There's a large group eating in the section of the taverna acros the road and we notice that they all stand up and cross themselves and later on there's a lot of chanting and singing, We stay on the beach until about 7 when the sun is beginning to get low in the horizon before making our way back to our new base the Hotel Oasi. For supper we go back to one of the furthest tavernas and have beef stifado.