Saturday 05 September KALO NERO to PYLOS (40 miles)

OThe shepherd is tending his flock in the field opposite as I step out naked onto the balcony to greet the new sun beaming day...but I don't think the sheep are that bothered. Ridiculously massive breakfast most of which we don't eat (somehow cucumber, tomatoes and cake aren't that tempting in the morning). Costas, the owner, descends regally and majestically from his upstairs pad, and greets us. He suggests we visit the 'nearby' site of Peristeria, which is 'only a few kilometres' from Kalo Nero. He extols the mythic characteristics of the place. Madness not to visit....or is it? Many sweaty uphill and downhill kilometres later we realise that 'nearby' has different connotations in Greece, and the words that actually come to mind and which seem more apt are....'nowhere' and 'we're in the middle of'....so we retrace our steps and abort the failed mission. Fantastic scenery nonetheless, surrounded by olive groves and high peaks. Back on our main trajectory after an hour or so we blast our way along in the life affirming heat, with straight roads and largely good surfaces. The road divides at Filastra ( which bizarrely displays a 12 metre high model of the Eiffel Tower on the way in) and we stop for an iced coffee (actually Nescafé frappé- which doesn't seem so authentic). The treacly heat then saps our energy as we continue and it gets to that now well known stage of a cycling day when you just want to get to the destination sooner rather than later. The signage seems to indicate that Pylos is actually getting further and further away, and then there is a delightful 10% gradient to go up and down to get to the town. As is the way we do eventually arrive, weary and not unusually very sweaty. Our hotel, Karalis Beach is in an imposing position at the end of the bay. Relax on the hotel terrace above the sea, with its private access into the water, with a spirit cleansing Mythos followed by cooling swims. We eat at a restaurant advertising roast pork as a special on a Saturday. Of course when we ask, however, it is only at lunchtime. Greek food at the water's edge once more.