Saturday 05 September KALO NERO to PYLOS (40 miles)

OThe shepherd is tending his flock in the field opposite as I step out naked onto the balcony to greet the new sun beaming day...but I don't think the sheep are that bothered. Ridiculously massive breakfast most of which we don't eat (somehow cucumber, tomatoes and cake aren't that tempting in the morning). Costas, the owner, descends regally and majestically from his upstairs pad, and greets us. He suggests we visit the 'nearby' site of Peristeria, which is 'only a few kilometres' from Kalo Nero. He extols the mythic characteristics of the place. Madness not to visit....or is it? Many sweaty uphill and downhill kilometres later we realise that 'nearby' has different connotations in Greece, and the words that actually come to mind and which seem more apt are....'nowhere' and 'we're in the middle of'....so we retrace our steps and abort the failed mission. Fantastic scenery nonetheless, surrounded by olive groves and high peaks. Back on our main trajectory after an hour or so we blast our way along in the life affirming heat, with straight roads and largely good surfaces. The road divides at Filastra ( which bizarrely displays a 12 metre high model of the Eiffel Tower on the way in) and we stop for an iced coffee (actually Nescafé frappé- which doesn't seem so authentic). The treacly heat then saps our energy as we continue and it gets to that now well known stage of a cycling day when you just want to get to the destination sooner rather than later. The signage seems to indicate that Pylos is actually getting further and further away, and then there is a delightful 10% gradient to go up and down to get to the town. As is the way we do eventually arrive, weary and not unusually very sweaty. Our hotel, Karalis Beach is in an imposing position at the end of the bay. Relax on the hotel terrace above the sea, with its private access into the water, with a spirit cleansing Mythos followed by cooling swims. We eat at a restaurant advertising roast pork as a special on a Saturday. Of course when we ask, however, it is only at lunchtime. Greek food at the water's edge once more.

Friday 4 September: OLYMPIA to KALO NERO (36 miles)

It feels good to wake naturally before the alarm. The jet lag seems to be easing. We breakfast in front of the tranquil pool. This must be one of the finest settings, although we didn't think that yesterday when we pushed our bikes up the steep hill after 55 miles. We even manage a few gentle lengths before heading off down hill initially, passing an Olympic theatre stadium and a reservoir. Eventually we have to joint the main road but Simon finds a detour which hugs a rocky out crop and we follow a sulphurous river. We see some old codgers partaking of the healing waters in a covered bath. We are not tempted. Revived by a Cafe Frappe (milk, no sugar - we are learning) we rejoin the main road. There are a number of tanker lorries but I note that most of the coaches are coming in the other direction. Sometimes it is possible to shelter on the right of the white side line but more often it isn't and I just keep my head down and pedal keeping Simon's well toned rear in my sights. I see some mountains looming in the distance and with a sinking feeling realise these must be the Pelopponese that we will be travelling through on our return. After 35 miles we reach Kala Nero, a pleasantly rustic seaside town. Our room in the Irida Resort hotel is rather brown but we are soon relaxing in a beach bar with a Greek Salad, fried fish and a glass of local oak drenched house wine. Free sunbeds on the beach and some bronzing and reading. There is quite a swell and getting in and out of the sea is quite a challenge. Back for showers and relaxing before heading out for supper. We eat at restaurant that is named only in Greek so we don't know what it is called. It is filled with Greeks and we watch the setting sun over the Aegean. Tsaziki, fried courgette and aubergine, grilled sardines and moussaka. All really fresh and delicious and certainly off the tourist track. I think we will sleep well.

Thursday 03 September ZAKYNTHOS to OLYMPIA (55 miles)

We're up before the sun rises over the bay (well it is 5 am BST), and then we see it arc its way majestically up and over for another day of baking. We cycle down to the port and get on our boat that will take us to Kyllini on the Peloponnese. Only one engine working so it takes about an hour and a half. Cappuccino and croissant and apple pie relieve our slightly jet-lagged spirits. Off we pedal along flat roads, through rural landscapes, sometimes strewn with rubbish...perhaps the bin men are on strike...we stop for an iced coffee in a little village and are surrounded by men drinking beer and coffee. I hear an announcement from a man in a van, like some sort of political announcement, in fact he's selling fruit and we buy grapes and nectarines and bullet hard pears ,which he assures us are very good( theyr're not!). Onwards...feeling very weary in the increasing heat ( we later find out it's 38 degrees). We stop at a deserted little village called Inoi and have coke and ask if they have anything to eat. They bring us fried eggs, bread, Greek salad, and white wine! Amazingly they say this is fromthem and don't want any payment...extraordinarily and unexpectedly generous. (We leave them a tip ). Spirits revived we head off agin in the heat and the road climbs now and then undulates, and the scenery is more attractive. Very few places to buy provisions and the villages are all deserted. We stop by a fountain just after Hemoi and wash away the dirt from the road works which has stuck to our feet and sandals and eat our fruit sitting in the shade. We see grapes being dried in the sun...raisins? The last mile or so to where we're staying is very steep and for the first time I get off and push...it's difficult enough even doing that! Beautiful hotel with pool and so after a bit of relaxing with Mythos we feel great but weary! We walk down to the ancient site which is serene and beautiful and wander around the ruins. Taxi back up the hill - another first! We eat by the pool overlooking the hilly landscape where we cycled and see the sunset. A very full, tiring but fantastic day!

Wednesday 2 September: BRISTOL to ZAKYNTHOS TOWN, ZANTE

There is an unfortunate sense of déjà vu when we awake before our alarms at 3.30am. I have barely slept. An empty motorway allows a clear run and we drop off our car with relative ease. We are relieved to find the departure lounge at Bristol Airport considerably less busy than in June and we even have time to sit down for our coffee and granola this time. I try and sleep on the flight but my travel cushion - remembered with glee at the last minute - has a puncture and deflates slowly, which I think is probably worse than having nothing at all. We arrive at the island of Zante on time and Simon asks at the Left and Lost luggage counter. whether we can leave the bike boxes there. Expecting a disinterested negative response we are amazed when they say yes and we unpack and rebuild the bikes next to the arrivals baggage carousel. Simon navigates us to ZAKYNTHOS town and we check into Dali rooms overlooking the harbour. It is very hot, much more humid that Croatia and there is a definite smell of Greece in the air. Simon is working up a good sweat. We unpack and cycle south along the coast to Agassi beach. Pretty horrific really with dozens of themed tavernas, dusty beach shops and beach hotels hogging the coastline. We eventually find a spot which has some grass and a pool which appears to be available to non residents. We bask a bit and have a swim and a read before a big beer. We now feel as though we have arrived.  Tea on our balcony. We are planning an early start tomorrow with an 8 o'clock ferry over to the Pelopponese (which will feel like 6am our time!) and then 50 miles inland up to Olympia. And I thought this was a holiday. Supper at Trip Advisor's second choice Ammas: the best fresh calamari and sardines with complimentary raki and dessert.

Map of Pelopponese

We are flying to the island of Zante / Zakinthos and then taking a ferry over to Kyllini in the Peloponnese on mainland Greece. We will be cycling up to Olympia, the site of the original Olympic Games, and then exploring the coastline of the western finger - down to Pilos, Methoni, Keroni and Messini before cycling back through the mountains via the ancient ruins of Messini to the coast at Kalo Nero again.